Visiting Save the Elephants in Kenya

The gunshot makes no sound. I’m only sure it’s been fired when the matriarch’s knees buckle under the weight of her one and a half-ton elephant mass.

“In this kind of operation every minute matters,” the vet tells us.

“No matter how many times we’ve done this, things can go wrong,” explains Iain Douglas- Hamilton, one of the world’s foremost authorities on the African elephant as we approach the fallen animal.

Save the Elephant

© Lori Robinson

I’m visiting Save the Elephants in northern Kenya; invited by Iain to join him and his team to replace a radio collar on this elephant while the BBC films the process.

Minutes earlier, a man in our group had driven a Landrover into the herd, separating the leader from her sisters, aunts and daughters. Confused and lost without her, the herd, now blocked from us by a circle of five vehicles, huddle together with trunks held high, and ears spread wide.

Save the Elephants

© Lori Robinson

“Twelve minutes before she wakes up,” the vet announces.  Iain places my fingers at the tip of the fallen elephant’s trunk into which he had positioned a thin stick to hold her two finger-like nostrils open.

“Today is good for collaring. Not too hot. Sedated elephants mustn’t get overheated,” the vet says.

The elephant’s warm, earthy smelling exhale fans my hand. I match my breathing with hers, hoping even in her unconscious state she will feel protected and safe. Wire-like whiskers cover her thick-skinned trunk. She is more massive, wrinkled, and dry than I could have imagined. Under any other circumstance I wouldn’t have the honor of being this close to a wild elephant, yet I’m conflicted about what we do in the name of research. I know the tracking information is used to establish protected corridors and minimize elephant/human conflict with surrounding communities. But how can we be absolutely certain we are helping, more than we are hurting these highly intelligent beings?

Save the Elephants

© Lori Robinson

Two men, one sitting on her front leg pushing against her chest for leverage, pull her old collar, while two other men on the opposite side of her head push her sagging neck skin out of the way.

“Vizuri,” the vet says after the new collar is fastened in place. “Well done.” It’s now up to her fifty-year-old body to find its way back to consciousness.

According to the vet, she should stir any second.  But she doesn’t. Eyes closed, she is still as death.  As our trucks pull away, I hear Iain’s voice over the radio. “I’m not sure why she isn’t up yet.”

My driver is worried too.  “A few years ago an elephant died from a collaring operation like this,” he says in a hushed voice.

The radio exchanges are mostly in Swahili, but I understand the subdued tone.

As our last Land Rover backs away, the herd hesitates, and then one of the adult elephants approaches their motionless leader. Everyone is silent and I can’t hold back tears.

With a nudge from her sister, the matriarch lifts her head and body in one motion, unsteadily rising to her feet. The other elephant sniffs her before other members join the greeting.

Save the Elephants

© Henry Holdsworth

Within two minutes she steadily walks with her family in tow, looking back once before they all disappear into the forest.

One of the characteristics Iain has documented about elephants is their amazing memory. They return to old watering holes after decades of drought, and visit graveyards of herd members who’ve died years earlier. I know they won’t forget today’s experience. The best I can hope for is that they will forgive.

 

About Lori Robinson

Thirty years of travelling to and living in eleven African countries – from my first trip to southern Africa on assignment as a fashion model, to my recent role as Africa Adventures Specialist in East Africa for the Jane Goodall Institute – has nourished my lifelong passion for the natural world. In 2009 I sold my big house and most of my stuff so I could live more simply. When I'm not traveling in Africa I’m writing about it from my small cabin in the Teton National Forest in Moose, Wyoming. You can find me at AfricaInside.org

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  • http://www.facebook.com/people/Judy-Beyer/681611986 Judy Beyer

    Very interesting. Thanks. I remember that ‘warm, earthy smell’ of elephants. They are such amazing animals :)

    • Lori

      Yes amazing. Thanks for reading my piece and commenting. I love hearing from people.

  • Rach Lang

    Incredible Lori, I really enjoyed reading this. Elephants are just the most amazing animals. You are so lucky to have had this experience, although it must have been very nerve- wracking and emotional…

    • Lori

      I agree,such amazing animals. I WAS lucky – at the right place at the right time, as they say. I will never forget it. Thanks for commenting.

  • Animal Listner

    Thank you for posting and sharing Lori.. One of these years, my dream trip is to spend a week – 10 days in Africa, guided by you.. Bless you, and the beasts of Africa, from all our fur babies at Animal Rescue Team, Inc. in Solvang, CA.

    • Lori

      Thanks for stopping by and commenting on my post. I can’t wait to take you to Africa.
      Thank YOU for all you do at ART for so many of our injured or abandoned friends.

  • Bonnie

    Lori! I’m so envious! I HAVE to get over there and experience it myself. It was so great to ‘meet’ you yesterday. Will write Iain tonight!

    • Lori

      Yes Bonnie, you of all people need to get to Africa. I would be delighted to take you.